Showing posts with label Ecuador. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ecuador. Show all posts

Friday, May 9, 2014

Walking Backward Through My Mind



Jorge was visiting family in Florida recently and when Abby forwarded me a photo he’d sent of his view during lunch one day 
it reminded me of Ecuador, which reminded me of fish, which reminded me of feeling like crap, which reminded me of labor and childbirth, which reminded me of my children which reminded me of Ecuador again.

Way back when I was in labor with Leslie, as the waves of contractions became stronger and more frequent, my desire to have more than one child became weaker and weaker.  Siblings are overrated.  I’m never doing this again.  Never, never, never, never.  Of course Dean had no idea I’d made the decision we were going to be a one-child family because, since I didn't speak for about six hours, all this was going on in my head.  Not that it mattered.  He had about as much control over whether I was going to have any more children as he’d had over whether I was going to have any children.  But then, not long after I’d told the nurse, I’ve had enough.  I’m not doing this anymore!  I wrapped my arms around Leslie, and as the pain-free glow of new motherhood intensified, the memory of the past few hours instantly receded.  That wasn’t so bad.  I can do this again.  I just need to get that breathing figured out so my hands won’t curl into claws when I hyperventilate. 

A couple of years later, because my memory was still wiped clean of those hours of labor before Leslie’s birth, and because I was still blissfully unaware that parenting was a roller coaster ride beyond compare— right after I raised my head from the delivery table, glared at my dutiful Mormon doctor and said, How could you have done this to your wife eight times? — Abby was born.  Who knew 28 years later, the little girl who once didn’t even want to move four blocks to a new house, would move to Ecuador.

Four times I joyfully planned a trip to see Abby and arrived in Ecuador filled with excitement, blissfully ignorant of the lurching and plummeting that lay ahead for my stomach.  Who knew every time I visited I was going to get sick.  And that each time, I’d get a little sicker.  On my first trip the worst of my suffering was over within two or three hours.  Unfortunately it was the two or three hours on my way home during my layover in Panama where the bathroom had a constant line of women snaking out the door waiting for their turn at one of the too-few stalls.  Try telling your intestinal tract to wait your turn when it’s insisting you get in there now! 

A few months later as I prepared for our trip to Ecuador for Abby & Jorge’s wedding, I was so happy to welcome Jorge to the family that the memories of my little affliction in Panama weren’t even a blip on my radar.  There were a couple of blips during the wedding ceremony but the reception, where I politely ate every last bite of my shrimp cocktail (because that’s what a good mother of the bride does even though that mother of the bride really hates seafood) was perfect.  Since nobody else puked up shrimp cocktail later that night, and I felt fine the next morning, I decided I was allergic to shrimp.  And even if I’m not, I am going to use that excuse for the rest of my life.

A year later when we visited Ecuador again I stayed far away from shrimp.  But at one point I thought I was going to be choking down some fish because that’s what a good mother-in-law does when her new son-in-law’s eyes light up with joy after stumbling upon a remote fish stand where you can eat fish so fresh their big eyes are still blinking in surprise.  I’d been feeling a bit queasy even before we discovered that fish stand and when a very nice woman showed us how she prepared the fish for cooking  ...




... I began to anxiously prepare my stomach for this delicacy by furtively scoping out the best spot to quietly puke my guts out without offending her.   Fortunately she told us there was no extra fish for us to eat since she was expecting a large tour group shortly so I was able to postpone the inevitable until the middle of the night, and by morning I was feeling much, much better.

A year after that, memories of my illnesses once again barely a flicker in my memory, and again blissfully unaware of what I was in for, I was ready to visit Ecuador again.  True to form, on this trip I got sicker than the last trip.  Only this time I wasn’t just a little sicker.  I was a lot sicker, for a lot longer.  One minute I was sleeping peacefully and the next my knees were banging onto a cold, hard bathroom floor.  I felt like the snake I’d seen a few days earlier — one minute minding his own business, swimming tranquilly in the ocean, and the next, grabbed by a grubby eight year old hand and slammed, over and over and over, like a whip, onto the hard beach.  

During that volcanic vomiting, bed shaking chills, and fever, I laid curled in a ball in the hotel thinking,  I don’t think I can come here again … I’m pretty sure I can never come here again … never, never, never, never. 

I didn’t know then that I had taken my last trip to Ecuador.  Five months later Abby moved back to the States and six months after that Jorge followed her.  So now we don’t need to travel to Ecuador to see them.  But that photo of the beach in Florida reminded me of Ecuador and what a beautiful country it is, and how friendly and courteous and happy the people are.   It made me feel a bit sad we won’t need to go to Ecuador to see them again.  It made me want to go back.   















And maybe someday we will.  Maybe we will eat plantain chips and drink Pilsner on the beach again.  But it might be a while.  It’s taking me a lot longer to forget that last gut-wrenching illness than it took to forget the vice-like labor of childbirth.  Wrapping my arms around porcelain just doesn’t seem to have the same memory vanquishing effect as wrapping them around a baby.   


But once that memory disappears I’d like to go again.  Because I had a lot of fun there — when I wasn’t puking in a hotel bathroom.



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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Sometimes Words Are Better


Picture this.  I link my arm with Dean’s and he leans into me.  He is weak and unsteady.  His eyes are barely focusing as I lead him, shuffling, to the truck where Jorge and Abby are waiting.  I help him as he slowly lowers himself into the front passenger seat and then join Abby in the back.  Jorge eases the truck into traffic.  Dean is curled into himself, arms cradling his head.  With every small bump he moans.   We have at least three hours of moaning ahead of us, if not more.  I see Jorge look over at Dean with a deeply furrowed brow and his already tense shoulders stiffen a little bit more.   Abby and I look at each other with worry.  Jorge drives slowly to avoid any jostling and resulting moaning but some bumps are unavoidable and the highway has lots of tight curves.   I don’t think Dean even realizes he is making those sounds.  After a while Abby tells Jorge to drive fast and just get us there.  That was our last day in Ecuador.

But the day before our last day in Ecuador was great.  Other than the fact that I never seem to believe Abby when she says I need to bring something warm to wear.  It’s Ecuador.  Who needs warm clothes?  We all did.  Because we visited Cajas National Park which is somewhere between 10,000 and 14,000 feet high and it’s cold.  It’s bone-chilling cold.  It’s what the heck was I thinking by not bringing anything warm to wear cold.  It’s I don’t care if I look stupid wearing this sweater on my head cold. 



 But it’s also very beautiful.  







Before we left for Ecuador I printed maps of the trails within the park thinking we’d do some hiking.  But hiking is not as enjoyable when your teeth are chattering.   And it’s hard to keep your balance on a trail when your arms are wrapped around your body like you are in a perpetual self-hug.  


But if I am ever in this park again and I have listened to Abby and brought something to keep the rain off as well as my winter boots and ski pants and multiple layers of sweaters and a real coat and ear bands and scarves and mittens and hand warmers and wool socks and it’s not snowing or raining … I’m going hiking. 

After our mini-hike we took our frozen bodies to a restaurant for lunch not far from the park

 

where the first thing they bring you is a warm alcoholic drink so you can stop shivering long enough to hold a menu.  


But I was so frozen that trying to warm my body with one small drink was like trying to melt a glacier with a blow torch. I don’t think I warmed up until about 11 p.m. that night.  Just about the time Dean was throwing off the covers before he ran to worship his own porcelain god after he came down with what we now think was the Norovirus I “shared” with him. 

You don’t want to picture that.  But for more pictures of the park and our trip you can go here.

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Friday, February 1, 2013

Mo' Joe Please


After we waved goodbye to pina coladas, the beach and the sandflies (I completely forgot to mention those in my last post) we spent the next three days lounging at Abby and Jorge’s home in Quevedo.  And when I say lounging, I mean literally sitting on our butts on the couch, in the hammock, out in the yard reading, playing on the computer, or petting Navy Bean the cat or Maggie the dog while Abby scurried around cooking us breakfast and lunch and dinner and washing our laundry and generally just catering to us.  I did feel some twinges of guilt now and then, like when I had to lift my feet so she could sweep under me, but I pretty much just thought, “maybe this letting your kids take care of you in your old age thing won’t be so bad after all.”  




 







When we weren’t being total slugs we went with them to their favorite haunts.  Now when Abby tells me they ate lunch at Ninos or dinner at El Toro or she just got back from grocery shopping at the mall or they spent the afternoon walking Maggie along the river ...














 







... I can picture where they are.  It helps me pretend they are closer to me.




















 We left Quevedo and drove up into the highlands through some of the most beautiful scenery you could ever see on our way to Cuenca.  Our hotel was across the street from one of the many cathedrals that fill the city.  The morning after we arrived, I laid in bed and listened to the muted singing of the worshipers as it began to slowly swell and flow from the cathedral into my room.  After having spent all night kneeling on hard, cold tile worshiping The Porcelain God, the peaceful blending of their voices soothed and comforted me.  Abby and Jorge brought me flowers and mints and medicine and Gatorade and wrinkled their brows in worry.   I did walk around a bit during the afternoon but that pretty much took it out of me so instead of getting to see this with Abby and Jorge and Dean as they walked to dinner, I sat in bed and ate a dry roll.



At least I didn't miss the largest, brightest, most sparkly Christmas nativity scene ever.


The day I managed to find the strength to go shopping I saw two medicine women in the market.  I wasn’t sure if they were healing people or warding off future illness but whichever it was, people were lined up waiting for the opportunity to be slapped with a bunch of herbs that smelled so strong my eyes nearly watered even though I was standing several feet away.  After my recent infirmity I was still feeling a bit green about the gills but I figured if being whacked about the body and head by a bunch of herbs would make me feel better I was all for it, even if it meant standing in line with shaky legs.  And then I saw one of the healers take a large drink of some special liquid and spew it out straight into the face of her patient―and I changed my mind.  

If only we'd pushed Dean to the front of the line for some protective mojo........



Want to see more of Cuenca?  You can bore yourself to tears here.

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Thursday, January 17, 2013

What Color Are YOUR Feet?



Near the end of our visit to see Abby and Jorge a year ago we all said let’s go to the Galapagos next year. Initially, I was of course worried about the cost, because that’s what I do best – worry.   A tour of the Galapagos isn’t cheap even if you select a Budget Cruise where there are only two choices for dessert – Dramamine in liquid form or Dramamine in pill form.  But the Galapagos ... the home of the Blue Footed Booby …


how cool would that be?  So Abby made some calls, Jorge made some calls, I did some Googling, and Dean agreed with every option we presented to him.  But after I took the time to really contemplate the pros and cons of spending thousands of dollars on a tour of the islands, I realized that even though depleting my savings account would be traumatic for me, witnessing Dean’s pain and anguish when he couldn’t collect a rock specimen from a national park was more than I could face. I made the sacrifice.  For him.  And we all I chose the poor man’s version instead.
 
As we were waiting at the tour office for our ride to the boat I looked around at the rest of our group and 
noted that most of them were wearing boots, long pants, jackets, and were carrying backpacks filled with who knows what probably useless things like lots of water, snacks and rain gear.  The four of us, on the other hand, were wearing shorts, t-shirts, light jackets, and had one backpack and two bottles of water between us.  Abby, Jorge and I were wearing flip flops because it was warm and we were, after all, going to be on a boat.   Dean, on the other hand was wearing his standard tennis shoes with socks.  I thought he looked as silly as the people who were wearing boots but to his credit, he didn't look as silly as if he were wearing his alternate footwear sandals and black socks. 

The van let us off at the beach and we walked through the fish market toward the shore where our boat was


waiting for us.  Our guide instructed all of us to put our shoes into his dry bag so we wouldn’t drag sand into the boat after walking through the water to reach it.  He looked at our flip flops and kind of shook his head and I knew he was thinking our feet weren’t blue but we were still boobies.








It took an hour to get to the island and we hiked for about three hours and saw dozens of Blue Footed Boobies, a sea lion, Frigate birds, and a rarely seen (so we were told anyway) huge and fluffy baby Albatross waddling through the bushes.






 Make sure your sound is on--and since this is a video it doesn't count toward my four photo limit.  
 Dang I'm a tricky little devil.





Booby feet are definitely better designed for the trail we hiked but our inappropriately-clad feet did survive our hike blister and puncture free and once we returned to shore they even managed to get us to a bar on the beach where we sucked down savored the delicate aroma of coconut and pineapple as we delicately sipped another piƱa colada.




Once again, if you would like to torture yourself with more mind-numbing vacation photos please feel free to go here.










 
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